08.04.2022

How To Use Acids In Your Skincare Routine

How To Use Acids In Your Skincare Routine
Acids in skincare can be a scary thought, especially if you've read or watched some horror stories where they've been overused. Don't let this put you off though, as acids are game changers and can transform your skin into a clearer, hydrated and more radiant version of itself. Knowing where to start when adding acids into your routine can be a minefield too. Especially as using the wrong acids for your skin type, or overusing them, can leave you needing to repair your skin barrier. Don't worry though, we're going to break down what the most popular acids do, what skin type they suit and the main things to keep in mind when using and paring them.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is part of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid family (AHA) and helps penetrate the outer layers of skin to increase cell turnover; meaning it's a great exfoliator and alternative to traditional exfoliators, which can leave little scratches on the skin's barrier. Adding this into your routine will help reduce skin bumps, scars and hyperpigmentation, whilst also making skin appear more radiant. In recent years many people have used Glycolic acid on their underarms, as with continued use it can reduce dark underarms and also B.O.

Skin Types/Concerns: Dry, textured, acne and scarred

Lactic Acid

If you've used Glycolic acid in the past and it has been too harsh for your skin, or are new to acids, then Lactic acid might be the one for you. It works in the same way as Glycolic acid by increasing cell turnover, but it is much gentler. A surprising use for Lactic acid is the body it helps to reduce Keratosis Pilaris (those pesky skin bumps) and even skin tone.

Skin Types/Concerns: Sensitive, dry, textured, acne and scarring

Salicylic Acid

Part of the Beta Hydroxy Acid family (BHA), it's a lipid-soluble so it can penetrate deep into the pores and help to remove build-up of dirt and sebum. This makes it great for fighting blackheads, breakouts and reducing the appearance of pores.

Skin Types/Concerns: Oily, breakout prone and large visible pores

Mandelic Acid

We're back to the AHAs with Madelic Acid; This acid is an extract of bitter almonds and is another product that works well to exfoliate. This all-rounder also helps to regulate sebum production, and like Lactic acid, it works well for sensitive skin as it's more slow working than similar acids.

Skin Types/Concerns: Sensitive, oily, textured and scarring

L-Ascorbic Acid

Think of L-Ascorbic acid as Vitamin C's bigger and badder older brother. It's basically the pure form of Vit C and as such its effects are a lot more potent. It's definitely one to avoid, or slowly build up to if you have sensitive skin, and in most cases using Vitamin C products will suffice.

Skin Types/Concerns: Pigmentation, scarring and dullness

Hyaluronic Acid

This is an easy way to introduce an acid into your routine, and you're probably already using it without realising as it's in a lot of moisturisers and serums. It works to pull moisture from the air and into the skin, it also binds up to 1000 times its weight in water. All this means skin will feel plumper, look more hydrated and absorb your layered products more easily.

Skin Types/Concerns: All skin types, especially dry or dehydrated

Azelaic Acid

If you suffer from dark spots, pigmentation and even melasma then Azelaic acid can help. But how? It inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production and by doing so it decreases pigment creation and discolouration disappears over time

Skin Types/Concerns: Pigmentation, discolouration and rosacea

THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

- SPF is key, especially so when using acids. So make sure you add a good SPF into your routine - Always introduce one product at a time into your routine, and do this gradually i.e. 1-2 days a week to start - Beware of layering too many acids as this can result in over-exfoliation and a damaged skin barrier. An exception to this is Hyaluronic acid, which can be used with other acids and is often encouraged to be layered - Avoid using an AHA/BHA before retinol as this can cause skin sensitivity and irritation - Don't use Vitamin C based products after AHAs/BHAs as this can result in skin sensitivity and irritation. Use your Vit C products in the morning, and your acids in the evening - Instead of layering multiple acids (if you even need them), try to find a product that contains them together. This way you know the potency of the product won't be too much
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